Thailand’s northwest frontier, between the provinces of Mae Hong Son and Chiang Mai, was once a draw for traders seeking fortune in the abundant teak forest. Today, the region entices visitors with its majestic landscape, ethnic diversity, and culinary delights, making it ideal for a week-long self-drive adventure.
Technically, you can drive from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son in around six hours, but this is not the sort of road trip you’ll want to rush. The classic Chiang Mai – Mae Hong Son route along Route 108 is one of Thailand’s most challenging yet scenic routes, with 1864 twists and turns, so roll down the windows, enjoy the views and soak up local and tribal cultures.
Here is a self-drive guide through Mae Hong Son and part of Chiang Mai. The route takes you along Thailand’s northwest outposts where Shan culture, tranquil valleys, thatched farmhouses and food adventures are waiting to be rediscovered.
A farmer works in the terraced rice field in Mae La Noi, Mae Hong Son province, Thailand’s north. (Photo by Phoowadon Duangmee)
Small town magic
Pick up your rental car at Chiang Mai International Airport and head to the Waroros Market (Kad Luang) for a hearty breakfast before heading off to the small town of Mae Sariang.
From Chiang Mai, you take Route 108 south for 100 kilometres before turning right into Hot district. Soon you will reach Op Luang National Park, a great place to stretch your legs and burn off some energy by strolling along a scenic river canyon, admiring waterfalls, caves and a prehistoric settlement. By midday, you should have arrived in Mae Sariang, a remote subdistrict on the Thai-Myanmar border that hugs the Yuam River.
When Siam was trading teak with British companies in the nineteenth century, this was the site of an important log-loading operation. Logs were loaded onto the Yuam River and floated northwest to the Moei and Salween rivers, eventually arriving at a sawmill in Mawlamyine. The log drive is long over, but the river’s beauty remains. You can now kayak down the Yuam, passing through scenic and rustic countryside and seeing the Tenasserim Range in the distance.
Mae Sariang is a small town with a bold flavour, thanks to the ethnic diversity that contributes to its food culture, and home to Shan, Chinese, Karenni, and Thais. There are also families of Bengali ancestry, whose forefathers were brought here by British timber companies. When the logging industry relocated to Lampang and Chiang Mai provinces in the 1920s, many chose to stay.
Along with the mosque they built, a temple and a church, you will find biryani and chicken masala, Shan soybean fermented sheets, “khao pook nga” (sticky rice with roast sesame seeds) and many local dishes to spice up your taste buds. Nobody should leave Mae Sariang hungry.
Wat To Phae in Khun Yuam, Mae Hong Son, is remarkable for its Shan architecture. (Photo by Phoowadon Duangmee)
Head over the hills
For the second leg of your journey, drive back to Route 108 and follow the road for 70 kilometres to Mae La Noi district. Once you reach Mae La Noi Post Office, turn right onto Route 1266 to visit the Karen communities in Huai Hom. This is a demanding two-hour drive along a mountain road with many twists and turns and offers an interesting vantage point overlooking soybean farms that appear to be hanging off the slope of a high mountain.
Every now and then, you’ll see hilltribe people negotiating a high path with a huge pile of soybean plants on their backs. Before long, you’ll arrive at La Oob Royal Project. La Oob, with its picturesque terraced rice paddies, rustic farmhouse, and eco-conscious vegetable farms, a good place to prepare for the pothole-filled road from La Oob to Huai Hom. Big skies, high roads, and hilltribe villages where you can’t tell a pig from a dog will, however, enchant you.
Farmers negotiate a high path with bales of soybean plants in Mae Hong Son province. (Photo by Phoowadon Duangmee)
Huai Hom, a small Karen village, is known for its sustainable agriculture, and Arabica beans are its pride and joy. Long before coffee beans from Thailand’s north became well-known, coffee farmers in Huai Hom were already selling their beans to Starbucks. Coffee connoisseurs can sip an espresso while walking through an Arabica plantation while farm enthusiasts can stay in the village and enjoy farmstays. In addition to petting sheep and piglets, the Karen offer a range of indoor and outdoor activities to keep everyone entertained. Those wanting less adventure and more luxury may wish to return to Mae La Noi and dine at a chic resort’s restaurant.
Charming Shan village
From Mae La Noi, take Route 108 north to Khun Yuam district. It’s a pleasant 50-kilometre drive along a scenic route. You occasionally come across stilt houses and stands selling fruits from the forest. Mueang Pon, a traditional Shan village, is your next stop, and will take you about 90 minutes to reach. The Shan, also known as Tai Yai, have lived in Mae Hong Son for centuries. Their lives revolve around the Buddhist calendar. That means there are numerous occasions to celebrate throughout the year. Mueang Pon is a great place to get out, stretch your legs, and do some exploring. Try the Shan Food Trail to learn about the culture and cuisine or drive north to Wat To Phae, one of Mae Hong Son’s most beautiful Buddhist temples. You’ll notice an elegant sermon hall next to the old stupa as you walk around the temple. The hall, which was constructed entirely of teak in 1920, is still in good condition, with a multi-tiered roof and fine woodwork.
A traditional flag made of textile and flowers at Mueang Pon village. (Photo by Phoowadon Duangmee)
A world away
Your next stop will be Mae Chaem, a remote district on the edge of Doi Inthanon National Park. This spectacular drive on Route 1263 takes you to the heart of Doi Inthanon passing through tropical woods, pine forests, endless corn fields, evergreen forests, and some of the most beautiful landscapes in the country. Stretch your legs on a Doi Mae U-Khoo stroll through a vast golden valley of blooming Mexican sunflowers. Continue on Route 1088 to remote Mae Chaem, which is known for its natural beauty.
Mae Chaem, located beyond the Inthanon Range, is an ideal location for office syndrome therapy. The peaceful countryside, fresh air, trees and flowers and small Buddhist temples all work together to lift the spirits. You’ll love its simplicity even more when you bump into a small band of Buddhist monks and novices, temple boys and dogs roaming the village for morning alms. While you’re in Mae Chaem, look for big skies, panoramic views of terraced rice fields, small temples, and handwoven textiles. Mae Chaem is far from the city lights and therefore has some of the darkest skies in Thailand, perfect for viewing the stars.
Rice barn in Mae Chaem, Chiang Mai.
Climbing Mt Inthanon
The drive from Mae Chaem to Chiang Mai on Route 1192 takes you through the heart of Doi Inthanon National Park. The park, known as the “Roof of Thailand” in recognition of being the country’s highest peak at 2,565 meters, has many amazing variations in its lush geography and forest. After negotiating the high road for an hour, you will be at the very top of Inthanon Mountain. Turn right into Route 1009 at Doi Inthanon National Park Checkpoint 2, and stop at Mae Klang Luang Village. Here, the Karen offer an easy trek along the Pha Dok Siew Waterfall nature trail. A two-hour downhill stroll takes you through the evergreen forest, cascades and scenic terraced rice fields. From here, you could visit the Royal Agricultural Station Inthanon and wander through orchards of peaches, plums, orchids and more. The Inthanon Royal Project Restaurant is the perfect place for lunch before heading to the airport.
Visitors kayak down the Yuam River in Mae Sariang, Thailand’s north. (Photo by Phoowadon Duangmee)
