As northern Thailand prepares for the culmination of the Buddhist Lent, the “Poi Lern Sip Et” Festival in Mae Hong Son Province is all set to take centre stage. Renowned as one of the country’s most breathtaking and fascinating events, this festival promises to immerse you in the rich tapestry of the Tai (or Shan) culture and captivate your senses with its awe-inspiring Jong Phara procession.

From October 25 to November 6, the annual Poi Lern Sip Et Festival will unfold in various locations throughout Mae Hong Son. These range from serene temples nestled in tranquil valleys to the province’s iconic landmarks. For an unforgettable experience, make sure to explore Mae Sariang, Mae Hong Son town centre, and the Su Tong Pae Bridge, as they offer the best vantage points for this captivating festival.

Traditionally, the Poi Lern Sip Et festival is closely associated with the Buddhist Lent, or Vassa ceremony, which runs for three months, commencing with the full moon in August and ending with the full moon in October. While the villagers bustle with activity in the rice paddies, Buddhist monks retreat to their temples to dedicate the three months to meditation and study. Many people choose to go the extra mile by abstaining from alcohol, tobacco, gambling, and meat consumption, aspiring to live a monastic lifestyle. The Poi Lern Sip Et festival is a welcome return to fun following the spiritual retreat and is celebrated over three days.

Two days before the full moon, women prepare traditional Tai dishes, with the highlight being kha nom jok a dessert akin to rice cakes. Meanwhile, men gather at the temple, a communal ground, to craft small bamboo temples to welcome the Lord Buddha back to the world. The Tai people, like many Buddhists in Thailand, believe that the Lord Buddha resides in heaven to teach dhamma to his departed mother during the three-month retreat. The small bamboo temples, adorned with colourful paper cuttings and illuminated by colourful lights, are placed around the temple and in front of houses.

The festival culminates in the evening with a vibrant Jong Phara procession, where local communities take to the streets to showcase their decorative bamboo temples. Fuelled by traditional northern battle drums (klong sabat chai), the festive parade features cultural performances like folk dances and sword-fighting displays. Of these, the most spectacular is the “King Kala” bird dance, where the performers don half-bird, half-woman costumes and dance with joy and faith, as Tai legend holds that this mythical creature is the first to see the Lord Buddha descending from heaven.

The Su Tong Pae Bridge, an iconic wooden crossing spanning a scenic rice paddy valley, plays host to the Jong Phara procession for three consecutive days from October 28-30. Located just 10 kilometres from Mae Hong Son’s town centre, this bridge is a prime location for travel photographers to capture the captivating procession as it moves from one end to the other.

For an authentic and original Poi Lern Sip Et festival and Jong Phara procession experience, the town centre of Mae Hong Son is the place to be. Here, as the King Kala bird dancers lead their festive procession through the downtown area, the Tai people adorn themselves in their finest attire and bring their best bamboo temples to the streets.

Visitors looking to avoid crowds can head to Mae Sariang, a small town located 85 kilometres south of downtown Mae Hong Son. The festival is celebrated in a particularly authentic manner here, with Shan women of all ages wearing their best longyis and bright blouses as their contributions to the festivity. As the full moon illuminates the time-worn pagoda, traditional Shan dances and cultural performances take centre stage.

Similar to other Tai communities around Mae Hong Son, locals in Mae Sariang place Jong Phara bamboo temples along with fire sticks in front of their homes. When night falls, they keep the fire sticks burning outside their fences. Torches, oil lamps, and lanterns light up the night, guiding more than 400 monks who arrive in the middle of the night for a rare almsgiving. The highlight of October 30 features all tribes in Mae Sariang taking to the streets in their traditional costumes to display flower and candle floats, marking the end of the Buddhist Lent retreat.

Planning your trip

Nestled in the valleys of northwestern Thailand, Mae Hong Son Province is a diverse region that is home to the Tai (or Shan) people, various hill tribes, and the Lanna people.

Bangkok Airways provides flight services connecting Bangkok to Mae Hong Son. Alternatively, you can embark on a scenic road trip from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son, which takes approximately 3.5 hours by car. This journey is well worth the time, as it offers the opportunity to experience the enchanting Poi Lern Sip Et festival and explore numerous cultural landmarks and captivating landscapes along the way.

The Jong Phara procession is scheduled to take place in Mae Hong Son’s town centre on October 27. Following this, the Su Tong Pae Bridge will be the venue for the procession from October 28 to 30. Additionally, the picturesque town of Mae Sariang will be the venue for the spectacular candle procession on October 30.

By Thai PBS World Feature Desk