By Oz Herza, Veena Thoopkrajae
A century and more ago, long before electric refrigeration came into being, our ancestors turned to tradition to preserve and keep food fresh. For example, after the harvest season, our Southeast Asian forefathers adopted traditional food preservation techniques such as drying, salting, smoking, and fermentation to keep fruits and vegetables from rotting.
Unsurprisingly, most of these are still in use today.
“Contrary to what many believe, food preservation is not only about ensuring food supply in times of scarcity. Even when food is abundant, some people practice food preservation as an art, in order to provide variation in cooking and food preparation. Sadly, in some communities, food preservation as a home activity is gradually disappearing,” lamented Mira Desuco, a food historian.
Today, as the world struggles with a global energy crisis, the art of traditional food preservation offers a helpful alternative to modern food preservation methods that use gas and electricity.
Healthy option
Traditional preservation methods have roots in ancient civilizations that used fermentation for bread and cheese, as well as drying food in the sun to prevent mold and bacteria growth.
“Traditional food preservation techniques practiced by our ancestors date back to prehistoric times. The historical significance of these traditions illustrates a deep respect and appreciation for the bounty of nature while promoting the health of the people in the community. Enhancing the flavor of the preserved food, I believe, was just a bonus,” Pepe, chef and owner of an Italian restaurant, told Thai PBS World.
“Those who practiced traditional food preservation techniques relied on locally available resources. The tradition also often involved the help and participation of people in the village, making it a collective effort that promotes a sense of community. In that regard, the tradition is considered an important part of one’s cultural heritage,” said Jeff, a student of culinary arts and food history.
Added flavour
For other foods, the traditional preservation methods employed involved dehydration, fermentation, and curing. These techniques for storing meat, fish, fruits, and vegetables not only extend the life of the food but also add unique flavors.
“Sun drying is believed to be the oldest traditional technique and one of the most effective. Modern methods may be efficient and fast but traditional food drying is more sustainable as it relies on natural resources and is therefore more environmentally friendly,” Chef Pepe explained.
Also still in vogue is fermentation, a traditional method of preservation that not only keeps the food safe but also enhances its flavor and nutritional value. Some examples of fermented foods are kimchi and pickles. In Thailand, fermented fish and pork have long been an integral part of the cuisine.
Smoking is also one of the oldest food preservation techniques, along with salt curing, lactic fermentation, and preserving in oil or vinegar. In Vietnam, fish such as mackerel and tuna are often salted to increase their shelf life and enhance the flavor when cooked. In the Philippines, the popular meat dish called adobo actually lasts for several days without spoiling because it is cooked in vinegar.
“Canning or bottling is also an effective method for preserving food like vegetables, fruits and meat without the need for refrigeration, making it ideal for long-term storage. One of the greatest benefits of this technique is that it requires no electricity to maintain freshness,” Chef Pepe said.
“Old traditional houses used to have a food storage cellar, which was usually located in a cool and dark portion of the house – a perfect place for keeping vegetables and root crops stored in wooden crates,” he continued.
Still relevant
Some of these traditional food preservation practices may not be as popular today due to more modern techniques.
However, these traditions show how our ancestors had turned to nature for survival, thus demonstrating the lasting impact of traditional knowledge on contemporary practices. Moreover, these old food preservation traditions also provide us with inspiration in terms of promoting sustainability and reducing food wastage, as they help reduce our dependence on gas, fuel, and electricity in a world seemingly continuously battling a global energy crisis.
(This story is part of a series about the vanishing cultural traditions in Southeast Asia.)
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