Tucked away in Thailand’s far western corner, where mist clings to forested hills and rivers trace ancient paths, Sangkhla Buri feels like a secret waiting to be discovered.
This tranquil border town, where the Songkalia, Ranti, and Bikhli Yai rivers meet, is more than a scenic escape—it’s a place where time slows, cultures converge, and life flows gently with the current.
Far from the tourist trail, Sangkhla Buri invites travelers to step into a world shaped by water and sustained by generations of Mon, Thai, Karen, and Burmese. Here, you don’t rush. You wander. You watch. You listen.
The Songkalia River is Sangkhla Buri’s lifeblood, dividing the border town into two worlds: the Thai town center on one bank with its markets, schools, and government offices; and the Mon community on the other, steeped in traditions that have remained remarkably intact for over a century.
Connecting them is the iconic Mon Bridge—or Uttamanusorn Bridge—the spiritual and physical heart of the town.
The Mon Bridge stretches 850 metres across the Songkalia River, making it one of Thailand’s longest and most scenic wooden bridges.//Photo: TAT
The vision of the revered Mon monk Luang Pho Uttama built in 1985 by locals, the bridge stretches 850 metres across the Songkalia, making it one of Thailand’s longest wooden bridges.
At dawn, it becomes a quiet procession path for saffron-robed monks receiving alms. Smoke curls above stilted kitchens on the Mon side; fishermen run their long-tail boats below, heading out for the day’s catch.
The river sustains daily life. Families collect drinking water, bathe, and wash clothes along its banks. Children cannonball into the shallows, while tourists on locally made paddle boards glide by to get a closer look at the iconic bridge.
Tourists on local paddle boards glide along the Songkalia River for a closer view of the iconic Mon Bridge. Photo://TAT Kanchanaburi Office
In the rainy season, the river swells and shimmers; in winter, it wraps itself in a cool mist. During dry months, sunken ruins rise from its depths, whispering stories of the past.
A Town Beneath the Water
A submerged temple emerges to create a spectral landscape in Sangkhla Buri District. Photo: TAT Kanchanaburi Office
One of Sangkhla Buri’s most intriguing features lies beneath the surface—literally. In the 1980s, the Srinagarindra Dam flooded the original town, submerging homes, temples, and livelihoods. The people relocated uphill, and the ruins of old Sangkhla Buri were left behind under the reservoir.
Take a long-tail boat from Sam Prasob, where the three rivers converge, and you’ll reach Wat Wang Wiwekaram, a partially
submerged temple founded by Luang Pho Uttama.
Local people travel on a long-tail boat along the Songkalia River.//Photo: TAT Kanchanaburi Office
During the dry season, you can walk up to the bell tower and run your hands over its weathered stones; in the wet season, the rooftops alone rise from the water, eerily serene.
Nearby, you’ll find the sunken Wat Srisuwan, Wat Somdet, and the remnants of a historic city gate that once marked the Thai–Myanmar border.
These submerged temples are more than curiosities—they’re enduring symbols of spiritual resilience and the community’s ability to adapt and move forward without forgetting what lies beneath.
On a hilltop overlooking the town stands Phutthakhaya Chedi, a glittering 59-metre stupa inspired by the Mahabodhi Temple in India, where the Buddha is believed to have attained enlightenment.
Local people gather at the temple to celebrate the annual boat of misfortune ceremony in September. Photo: TAT Kanchanaburi Office
Constructed in 1978 and repainted by hand every year by local volunteers, the chedi shines like a beacon of unity.
At its base, a Bodhi tree—descended from the sacred tree in Bodh Gaya—adds further weight to its spiritual importance. Relics from Sri Lanka are enshrined at its summit, gifted in honor of the town’s faith and hospitality.
The chedi comes alive during local festivals, especially during Songkran and Loy Ruea Sadokhror, when the town swells with visitors, processions, and shared rituals that transcend ethnicity and language.
A Morning in a Mon Kitchen
You don’t truly know Sangkhla Buri until you’ve tasted its food. Start your day with a bowl of khanom jeen nam ya yuak kluay, fermented rice noodles swimming in a fragrant banana-pith curry—sweet, spicy, and unmistakably Mon.
A bowl of Khanom Jeen (fermented rice noodles in a banana-pith curry) defines the taste of the Mon.//Photo: TAT Kanchanaburi Office
Locals also queue up early at Jok Nang Yong, a humble spot known for its delicious Mon-style rice porridge. Served with Pla Tong Ko – a Chinese dough - and topped with minced pork, ginger, and spring onion, it’s the kind of breakfast that warms the soul and lingers on the tongue.
Dinner might be a plate of Hang Lay curry, a deep, smoky pork stew rich with tamarind and ginger. Made in large pots and served in family-style portions, it’s a dish that speaks of home and history.
Misfortune Takes a Boat Ride
If there’s a time to visit Sangkhla Buri that reveals its true spirit, it’s during the Loy Ruea Sadokhror ceremony.
Held each year in September (this year falling on 22–23 September), this two-day festival is both spiritual cleansing and cultural celebration.
The community gathers to build bamboo boats, adorned with incense, paper flags, and symbolic offerings. These vessels aren’t made to last—they’re meant to float downstream, carrying away the past year’s misfortunes and sorrows.
The ceremony begins with parades and traditional Mon performances at night. The water glows with lantern light; the air hums with prayer and percussion.
Mon villagers in their finest dress mingle with travelers and Thai neighbors in the temple grounds, creating a sense of unity and beauty rarely seen in today’s world. Then, all things culminate in the morning release of the boats at the confluence of the three rivers.
This is a moving experience—not just for what it represents, but for how it’s shared.
Sangkhla Buri is not the kind of place you tick off a list. It’s a town that rewards curiosity, patience, and a willingness to listen.
Whether you’re crossing a wooden bridge at sunrise, sipping herbal tea beside the river, or joining villagers to build a boat of misfortune, you’re stepping into a space shaped by tradition, water, and quiet strength.
It is more than a border town—it’s a timeless tale, gently told by rivers and remembered by those who take the time to follow them.
Getting There
Sangkhla Buri is about 350km from Bangkok. Direct buses run from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal (Sai Tai Mai), taking around 7–8 hours. For a slower but scenic route, take a train to Kanchanaburi, then continue by bus or minivan through the winding roads of Highway 323. If you’re driving, allow time for stops—this journey is as much about the getting there as the being there.
