While Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal may now be the new face of railway travel, the historic Hua Lamphong Station is far from being forgotten.
Instead, its quiet retirement has sparked a renaissance in the surrounding streets. From timeless temples to art-filled alleys, artisan cafés to raucous rooftops, Hua Lamphong is becoming a stomping ground for travelers who like their city breaks with a side of curiosity and character.
Set out on foot for a full-day ramble through this reawakening quarter—beginning with a moment of serenity, meandering past canals and galleries, and ending with a cocktail in one hand and a late-night bowl of congee in the other.
Just a short stroll from Hua Lamphong Station, Wat Traimit—or the Temple of the Golden Buddha—is a fitting starting point. At its heart is a jaw-dropping 5.5-tonne solid gold Buddha, which was hidden under a layer of plaster for centuries until an accidental chip revealed the gleam beneath in the 1950s.
A jaw-dropping 5.5-tonne solid gold Buddha, hidden beneath plaster for centuries and only revealed by accident in the 1950s, now sits in splendor at Wat Traimit.//Photo: Tourism Authority of Thailand
The temple also hosts a museum narrating both the statue’s hidden history and the story of Bangkok’s Chinese-Thai community. Come early, dress modestly, and take your time soaking up the peaceful energy before heading into the bustle.
Next stop is the former Bangkok Station – better known as Hua Lamphong railway station.
Even you’re not catching a train, Hua Lamphong Station is a destination in its own right. Opened in 1916 and designed by Italian architect Mario Tamagno, the former Bangkok Station still stands proud with its Beaux-Arts dome, colorful stained glass windows, and cool marble floors.
Step inside and you’ll find a cinematic setting where backpackers rest their feet, urban sketchers capture the light filtering through the arches, and locals wait with quiet purpose.
Tucked just behind the main hall is the pint-sized but engaging Thailand Railway Museum, where you can trace the country’s train travel history through vintage photographs, old tickets, and miniature models. It's a nostalgic nod to a slower, steamier era of travel.
From Hua Lamphong Station, you could slip away to the Krung Kasem Canal Walk—a surprisingly serene stretch of Bangkok history.
Commissioned by King Rama IV in the 1850s, the canal was once a defensive moat; today it offers a leafy escape for walkers, joggers, and the occasional street barber.
Rent a bike, snap photos of weathered bridges and sleepy shophouses, or simply let the city’s softer rhythms lull you into a different pace.
Hua Lamphong’s rebirth takes a bold turn at Bangkok Kunsthalle, located in a repurposed brutalist printing factory just beyond Nana Alley on the west side of the station.
This vast contemporary art space opened in 2024 and has quickly become one of Bangkok’s most compelling cultural centers. Expect cutting-edge exhibitions, immersive installations, and thought-provoking performances.
The building’s raw concrete shell only adds to its allure. Entry is free and the space is open from 2pm to 8pm., Wednesday to Sunday. Chances are, you’ll leave with something to think about.
Sip, Snap, Repeat
The area’s café scene is every bit as diverse as its history. Make your first caffeine stop at 103 Bed and Brews, where Thai-Chinese heritage is brewed into every cup of cold drip. Tucked into a quiet lane near Soi Nana, this hybrid café-hostel is a stylish nod to the area’s past.
Next, drop into Akirart Coffee, a retro gem where 1980s Thai office culture gets a quirky makeover—expect pastel furniture, nostalgic signage, and a soundtrack to match.
Further along, Arai Arai Café and Bar is part social hub, part lifestyle store, part event space. Whether you're browsing indie zines or sipping homemade kombucha, this is where locals come to hang out.
For something a little more photogenic, duck into Wallflowers Café, a multi-storey wonderland of dried blooms and moody lighting. Head to the rooftop for sweeping views of Hua Lamphong rooftops and the city beyond.
Or climb the creaky stairs at Maithe Café for the best perch to people-watch and enjoy the colonial-style streets of Maitri Chit
below.
Slip away from Hua Lamphong Station to the Phadung Krung Kasem Canal—a leafy path lined with joggers, walkers, and the occasional street barber.//Photo: Tourism Authority of Thailand
The Wat Traimit Museum traces the rich history of Bangkok’s Chinese-Thai community through engaging exhibitions. Photo/Tourism Authority of Thailand
From Classic to Cutting-Edge
As dusk falls, Hua Lamphong sheds its heritage cloak and slips into something more spirited. Start your bar-hop at Ba Hao, a sultry Chinese-inspired spot on Soi Nana where vintage design meets creative cocktails and nostalgic dishes. The red neon glow is your cue to step inside.
Next up is Teens of Thailand, Bangkok’s original gin den with serious street cred. Behind a sticker-clad door lies a world of botanical wonders and local bar legends.
For something uniquely Thai, TEP BAR takes the cocktail bar concept and infuses it with national pride—herb-laced drinks, traditional Thai music, and a menu that riffs on ancient flavors.
Sip on “Som Jeed”, a zesty blend of native citrus, tonic, and smooth cold-brew coffee at 103 – Bed and Brews hostel and coffee bar.//Photo: /103 – Bed and Brews Facebook page
Then there’s Lucky Duck Bar, a Shanghai-meets-Prohibition speakeasy hidden above the Italian eatery Contento. The entrance—disguised as a roast duck joint—is a cheeky nod to Chinatowns everywhere. Inside, expect velvet booths, cinematic lighting, and cocktails inspired by old-school Hong Kong films.
No Bangkok night out is complete without a 2am food stop. Enter Khao Tom Paeng Nam (Nana Branch), a beloved late-night eatery where rice porridge reigns supreme.
Slide into a booth, order crispy pork belly, spicy shrimp salad, and a bowl of steaming congee, and reflect on the layers of the city you’ve just walked through. It’s the perfect mix of comfort, culture, and culinary reward to round off your Hua Lamphong adventure.
Far from just a relic of train travel, Hua Lamphong, where train tracks meet trendsetting culture and temples meet tipples, is fast becoming one of Bangkok’s coolest places. Walk through it slowly, and let the stories unfold.
