Tucked away in Bangkok’s historic Chinatown, Song Wat Road is a journey through time. Once known as the city’s Spice Road, it was a vibrant hub where Indian, Chinese, and Thai communities lived and traded together.
Overlooking the Chao Phraya River, this storied district seamlessly blends the charm of old-world commerce with a fresh wave of artistic and culinary innovation.
From centuries-old shrines and warehouses-turned-galleries to Michelin-starred dining and hidden coffee houses, Song Wat offers a glimpse into Bangkok’s dynamic transformation and is worth revisiting as its ongoing renaissance is breathing new life into this spice district.
Lao Pun Tao Kong Shrine, on the corner of Song Wat Road and Trok Chaiyaphum Alley, is a fitting (and even auspicious) starting point for your visit to the Song Wat neighbourhood.
Founded by Teochew Chinese settlers, this grand and intricately designed shrine remains a pillar of the community, drawing worshippers seeking prosperity and protection.
Begin your visit by honouring Tua Lao Ere at the shrine’s centre, then walk the traditional circular path to enhance your fortune.
Complete your spiritual journey with a blessing from Lao Pun Tao Kong, the warrior deity guarding the shrine’s entrance, ensuring safe passage for all who enter. With that, you’re ready to explore.
A short stroll from the shrine, the aroma of freshly brewed coffee beckons from Song Wat Coffee & Roasters (SCR). This intimate café fuses Bangkok’s old-world charm with contemporary coffee culture, offering a curated selection of beans.
Song Wat Coffee & Roasters serves up a caffeine kick amid Song Wat’s old-world charm.//Photo: Song Wat Coffee & Roasters Facebook page
Complement your cup with a pandan canelé or a chestnut croissant while soaking in the café’s minimalist yet vintage aesthetic. Nestled in a quiet alleyway, SCR is a sanctuary for caffeine connoisseurs and design enthusiasts alike.
Among Song Wat’s hidden gems is Masjid Luang Kocha Itsahak, the city’s oldest mosque, built in 1910 by a prominent Indian-Muslim merchant.
Its understated Indo-Persian architecture, featuring a simple white dome and arched windows, stands in contrast to the bustling Chinatown streets.
A heritage gem on Song Wat Road, adorned with intricately carved wooden balconies and elegant window details.//Photo: Phoowadon Duangmee
The mosque offers a peaceful retreat, inviting visitors to step inside the serene wooden prayer hall and appreciate the diverse cultural threads that have woven together Bangkok’s rich history.
After immersing yourself in Song Wat’s historic mosque, take a short stroll to the Play Art House. Once a hub for handcrafted shoes, this old warehouse has found new life as an art gallery, the district’s first dedicated space.
Open from 10am-7pm Monday to Thursday and until 8pm Friday to Sunday, the venue showcases a rotating lineup of exhibitions from both Thai and international artists, celebrating everything from painting and sculpture to immersive theatre.
With free admission, it’s an accessible and inspiring stop for art lovers eager to experience contemporary creativity within a historic setting.
Slightly opposite Play Art House is Road of Cinnamon, a boutique featuring an extensive collection of artisan crafts.
Road of Cinnamon on Song Wat Road overflows with handcrafted treasures.//Photo: Road of Cinnamon Facebook page
Beginning as a small collective of Song Wat, Road of Cinnamon is a charming store brimming with handcrafted wonders. Here, shoppers can find an eclectic mix of porcelain, amulets, homeware, and even intricately designed puppets.
Beyond Thai-made treasures, the shop also surprises visitors with rare international finds. Whether searching for a distinctive keepsake or an authentic cultural artifact, Road of Cinnamon is a must-visit for lovers of craftsmanship.
A taste of Song Wat’s culinary legacy awaits at Gu Long Bao, where a 100-year-old Teochew bao recipe has been reimagined by the next generation.
Gu Long Bao serves a vegetarian Chinese bun, reinventing a 100-year-old Teochew bao recipe for a new generation.//Photo: Gu Long Bao Facebook
Here, the classic white steamed buns take on a golden hue, thanks to the infusion of sweet potatoes. Traditional fillings like minced pork and sweet bean are served alongside inventive options such as plant-based pork and black sesame.
Pair your bao with a refreshing herbal drink and savour the delicate balance of tradition and creativity that defines Gu Long Bao.
A fresh addition to Song Wat’s dining scene, E-Ga Luv Seafood is a contemporary take on classic Thai seafood dishes, offering a menu that highlights fresh ingredients with a creative twist.
Khao Yum, Southern Thailand’s vibrant rice salad, shines with fresh flavours at E-Ga Luv Seafood.//Photo: Ega Bangkok Facebook page
From crispy garlic-fried fish to fiery hot-and-spicy seafood soup, every dish is an ode to the sea. Those arriving before 11am can indulge in exclusive breakfast specials, while Thai desserts and cakes are available throughout the day.
Whether seeking a hearty breakfast or an indulgent dinner, E-Ga Luv Seafood delivers an unforgettable riverside feast.
For tea aficionados, Casa Formosa Taiwan Tea House offers an authentic experience curated by tea expert Larry Ko. Housed in a charming century-old shophouse, this serene retreat serves some of Taiwan’s finest brews, from Sun Moon to Oriental Beauty.
Beyond tea, Casa Formosa crafts exquisite tea-infused ice creams and pastries, making it a delightful escape for those looking to unwind with a warm drink and good conversation.
A book lover’s sanctuary, The Reader is a quaint yellow bookstore on Phat Sai Street, a neighbourhood traditionally known for its shoe shops.
Inside, shelves brim with carefully selected titles in both Thai and English, covering everything from classic literature to contemporary reads.
A cozy reading corner invites visitors to linger over a book with a cup of tea or coffee, making it the perfect hideaway for a quiet afternoon.
Rounding out Song Wat’s transformation is Potong, a one-Michelin-starred dining destination. Once a Chinese pharmacy, this historic shophouse has been reimagined by Chef Pichaya “Pam” Utharntham into an avant-garde Thai-Chinese restaurant.
Chef Pam Pichaya Utharntham attracts food lovers to Potong in Song Wat for her avant-garde Thai-Chinese cuisine.//Photo: Potong Facebook page
The menu, rooted in the Five Elements philosophy, presents a crafted multi-course experience that pays homage to both heritage and innovation.
From its storied spice trade legacy to its present-day revival as a hub of art, culture, and gastronomy, Song Wat is a district that embraces change while honouring its past.
Locals trade in spices along Bangkok’s historic Song Wat Road.//Photo: Phoowadon Duangmee
Whether exploring Song Wat’s spiritual landmarks, indulging in its culinary delights, or uncovering hidden artistic treasures, a walk through Song Wat is a walk through Bangkok’s living history.
If you go..
The Song Wat neighbourhood is easily accessible, just a short walk from Ratchwong Pier or a 15-minute stroll through the vibrant streets of Chinatown from Wat Mangkon MRT Station.
