One of the oldest markets in Thailand’s capital, Tha Tien is a must-visit tourist destination, thanks to its location in the old town, a rich historical background, and the diverse cultures of Thai citizens of various backgrounds. But this historical quarter is not just recommended for foreign visitors but also for Thai locals and expatriates who will be fascinated by the multifaceted charms it has to offer.
Nestled in the heart of so-called Rattanakosin Island, the Tha Tien community is bursting with treasures and historical sites as well as relatively newer lifestyle options such as cafés, bars and restaurants. It recently played host to the Tha Tien Festival. Held from July 21 to 23, the event featured a range of activities including a walking tour.
Visitors could choose three walking routes – Foodies, Mutelu (a fusion of different spiritual and mystical beliefs, creating a unique and complex system of faith and practices in Thai culture) and Cultural. Of course, no single route can provide a thorough understanding of the area so anyone wishing to learn more is well advised to return.
The word “Tha” means port and Tha Tien was an important area for maritime trade in the past. There are several theories as to the origin of its name. Some say that it came from multiple fires in this area. Others believe that it was established by a group of refugees who sought shelter from wars during the Thonburi period. These refugees migrated from Hatinh and eventually transformed the area into the community now known as Tha Tien.
Whatever the reason behind the name, this former maritime port area drew people of different nationalities to conduct business. The Kingdom’s very first distribution centre of goods, it quickly became a melting pot of cultures including Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese, and Mon.
Wat Phra Chetuphon Wimonmangkalaram Ratchaworamahavihard or Wat Pho, sometimes referred to as the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, served as the religious backbone of the community and remains its most important historical and cultural site.
The guide of a recent walking tour pointed to the shophouses, explaining that these neo-classic style edifices were built during the reign of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) that began in 1868 and continued until 1910, and were used to sell dried seafood. The fresh seafood arrived at this port, which also served as a wholesale market. Today, the market is divided into zones offering everything from consumer goods to edible items.
Mirroring the culture and life of the ancient community, Tha Tien is a visual reminder of Bangkok in its early days, a vision that has not been erased by the coming of venues more suited to 21st-century lifestyles. And it will soon undergo a facelift. According to our tour guide, the area forms part of a restoration and conservation plan by its landlord, the Crown Property Bureau. The present vendors in the market have been told to move out by the end of this year while the work, slated to be completed within a year, is carried out. When they move back, the vendors will be asked to comply with new hygiene standards and to use standard packaging.
From wholesale market to lifestyle hub
Originally, this riverside area was a wholesale trading hub, receiving shipments of sugar, rice, sand, and various goods transported by water from all over the country. However, the shipping business gradually declined as a result of the convenience of land transportation, and the owners of the buildings adapted to cater to tourist preferences.
As an example, the once bustling sugar port has undergone a remarkable transformation into a trendy cafe and a charming boutique hotel. Similarly, the wholesale consumer goods shop has evolved into a modern and stylish restaurant. Despite these dramatic makeovers, the original essence of these establishments has been thoughtfully preserved. For instance, the former sugar mill, now a delightful cafe, proudly showcases traditional sugar-processing equipment and antique sugar presses, while a signboard tells the story of its heritage. Another intriguing change is the conversion of the rice port into a captivating museum, offering visitors a glimpse into the rich history of rice trading.
Our guide led us to Tana, a space that once thrived as a wholesale trading hub. Today, the younger generation has embraced the area’s newfound status as a tourist hotspot and shifted the focus to a restaurant. The menu now features dishes adored by locals, prepared with well-known ingredients sourced from the heart of Tha Tien. These time-honored recipes have been lovingly passed down through generations and are refined with the addition of aromatic herbs, as well as artistic garnishing, resulting in beautifully presented dishes.
Entering the restaurant, we were charmed by the personal touch evident in every detail. The decor was a collaborative effort by the children, and their creative flair extended to the design of the menus. The heartwarming experience continued as we saw the mother working in the kitchen, while the father attended to the diners with care and attentiveness. The children eagerly took turns assisting with cooking and serving, imbuing the place with a genuine sense of family warmth. Though modest in size, the restaurant exudes an intimate ambiance with only 5-6 tables, making reservations a wise choice. Operating from 2pm to 2 am, it is closed for two days a week to allow the family time to recharge and maintain their high-quality service.
With small businesses like Tana, the Tha Tien area becomes even more alluring, offering visitors a fresh and dynamic experience with every visit.
Highlights on the other side
The small alleys of Tha Tien shophouses offer a captivating display of diverse cultures. One can find Chinese shrines, including the renowned Pueng Thao Kong Shrine which is a part of the Mutelu walking tour, as well as traditional Thai massage schools and charming old shops. At the end of some alleys, a breathtaking view of the Chao Phraya River and the iconic Wat Arun, also known as the Temple of Dawn, await.
Restaurants with a clear view of the Temple of Dawn are always fully booked during dinner, and it is advisable to make reservations in advance. Both foreigners and locals alike relish the enchanting spectacle of sundown here at Tha Tien.
The Mutelu tour invites visitors to experience the attractions on the other side of Thai Tien, notably the iconic Phra Prang Wat Arun. As part of the tour, visitors are also introduced to the talk-of-the-town Phra Prang’s tile pattern ice-cream.
In the past, Tha Tien boasted a strategically advantageous location with its riverside community and proximity to the Grand Palace. Over time, its location has retained its significance in terms of connectivity, as visitors can effortlessly explore the cultural sites on the opposite side of the river. Across the river, you can explore historic treasures like Wat Rakhang, Wat Arun – both built during Ayutthaya Period), and Wat Kalayanamit (built during the reign of King Rama III).
Apart from these precious Thai landmarks, enthusiasts can enrich their understanding through a visit to Museum Siam, where interesting exhibitions are constantly held. If coming to Tha Tien by the underground metro, get off at MRT Sanamchai, and you cannot miss the museum that greets you as you ascend from the underground elevator to the ground floor.
“There is too much to explore on one go,” said our tour guide. We couldn’t agree more.
