The historic Haroon Mosque in Bangkok’s Bang Rak District will mark its 125th anniversary on December 16. The quasquicentennial jubilee promises not just a commemoration within the mosque’s historic walls where spirituality and history intertwine, but also a tasty culinary voyage through delectable Muslim cooking rooted in vibrant South Indian cuisine.
Haroon Mosque is one of the oldest mosques in Bangkok. It was named after Haroon Bafadel, the son of Musa Bafadel, an Arab-Persian trader from Pontianak, Indonesia, who settled in Bangkok in the early 19th century. The mosque was initially constructed in wood on the bank of the Chao Phraya River in the 1850s and is said to have been beautifully designed in a hybrid Ayutthaya-Java style.
Haroon Mosque’s community is renowned for authentic and tasty biryani.//Photo by Haroon Mosque
Around 1888, during the reign of King Rama V, the mosque was relocated a few hundred metres inland to make way for the Customs House, the symbol of modernising international Siam. In 1934, Haroon’s son, Muhammad Yusuf, decided to renovate the building using bricks and lime, resulting in the structure we see today.
Established by Indonesian migrants, the Haroon Mosque community, formerly known as the Ton Samrong community, attracted Muslim traders from Southern India and Java due to its proximity to the trading district.
Many residents are descendants of the original Indian-Muslim traders, while others have relocated to the area over the years. Today, the largest communities comprise descendants of Cham, Indian, and Pakistani ethnic groups, along with Muslims from other parts of Thailand, enriching the cultural tapestry of Charoen Krung.
Visiting Haroon Mosque offers a glimpse into the multicultural history of Charoen Krung and the harmonious coexistence of diverse communities. The mosque unfolds its unique charm through an exquisite display of decorative calligraphy in the prayer hall, a masterpiece skilfully crafted by the hands of Javanese artisans.
These mesmerizing patterns reveal the enchanting artistry of Islamic calligraphy, specifically the captivating style known as Muthanna or mirror writing. Within this style, a source text and its mirror image dance in symmetrical elegance along a horizontal or vertical axis, creating a truly enchanting visual experience.
The soulful diversity of Bang Rak unfolds in a symphony of flavours within its vibrant halal dishes. Picture a culinary mosaic where the fragrant spices of Indian, the savoury delights of Pakistani, and the exotic richness of Middle Eastern cuisines meld in delightful harmony with the local charm of authentic Thai fare.
More than 50 tantalising food stalls, each boasting a treasure trove of halal delights, are set to commandeer the vibrant Soi Charoen Krung 36. Among the culinary treasures awaiting discovery, the elusive Indian rice kanji and sambal, lovingly prepared by the Muthu Family, promise an authentic journey into rare flavours.
Kanji rice porridge is served with sambal— a hot paste crafted from Indian herbs and spices.//Photo by Haroon Mosque
Don’t let the opportunity pass without indulging in the culinary symphony of chicken, fish, beef, and lamb biryani, or savouring the aromatic fish curry from the legendary Muslim Restaurant by the Sulaiman family, which sadly closed its doors in 2020. Noodle lovers should not miss the savoury beef noodles, while those who like their food hot and spicy should try the fiery khao gaeng varieties.
As you navigate this halal haven, be sure to explore snacks and desserts that beckon with irresistible allure. Imagine sinking your teeth into the luscious Appam or Apom, an Indian pancake crafted from fermented rice flour and coconut milk batter, delivering a taste of sublime indulgence.
For those with a sweet tooth, the kue cara manis or pandan sponge cake, suji ka halwa or the Indian semolina pudding, and the decadent gulab jamun are desserts not just to enjoy, but to savour with every blissful bite. So, let the culinary adventure begin, and prepare to be captivated by the enchanting flavours that await on Soi Charoen Krung 36.
Suji ka halwa, known as suji in Thailand, invites you on a culinary journey into the heart of Indian heritage.//Photo by Haroon Mosque
Halal foods at the Haroon Mosque 125th anniversary are like portals to a world where cultures converge, creating a gastronomic celebration that tantalises the taste buds and paints a vivid portrait of unity in diversity.
DISHES NOT TO MISS
Kanji Rice Porridge
The traditional delicacy hailing from Tamil Nadu, Kanji rice porridge, found its way to Thailand through the Muthu Family—the pioneering Indian traders who established themselves around the Haroon Mosque. This rice boasts a luscious texture, with a base of creamy coconut milk infused with a medley of various Indian herbs and more than 10 spices.
The rich taste and enticing aroma of Kanji rice porridge are created by a blend of herbs and spices.//Photo by Haroon Mosque
The result is a distinctive and aromatic flavour that tantalizes the taste buds. Kanji is often paired with sambal—a spoonful of a fiery paste crafted from Indian herbs and spices. For those seeking to savour the authentic taste of Haroon, visitors to the festival will have the opportunity to indulge in kanji and sambal, a culinary tradition passed down through generations from the Indian traders.
Biryani
Biryani, the pinnacle of Indian cuisine, takes on an exceptional character near the Haroon Mosque, offering a heightened flavour profile not easily found in other Thai communities. The secret lies in the infusion of Indian culinary techniques, evident in the meticulous spicing process and the harmonious preparation of rice and curry.
The Haroon Mosque presents a diverse biryani selection, ranging from fish and chicken to the quintessential mutton biryanis. Elevate your culinary exploration with a side of mutton dalcha curry, boasting a rich, savoury broth and tender mutton pieces—a delightful addition that takes your biryani journey to new heights.
Fish Curry
A culinary journey through India’s coastal delights at the Haroon Mosque would be incomplete without savouring a delectable fish curry. Bursts of Indian flavours. fenugreek, anise seeds, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, cinnamon, cardamom, garlic, and chilli come together to create the rich taste and enticing aroma of this traditional Indian dish.
Traditional Southern Indian fish curry is a feast for the soul.//Photo by Haroon Mosque
Offering a choice between king mackerel and bonito fish, the former boasts luxury with its firm texture and pleasant flavour, while the latter provides excellent value with a substantial meaty chunks and a robust fishy taste. Whether paired with chapati, roti, naan, or a bowl of steaming hot rice, this fish curry is a feast for the soul.
Suji Ka Halwa
Suji ka halwa, or simply suji in Thailand, is a harmonious blend of aromatic ghee, cardamom, and roasted semolina, crafting a rich, textured masterpiece. Imbued with cultural richness, each bite is a sojourn into the heart of Indian culinary heritage.
The delightful interplay of grainy and gooey textures, coupled with perfectly balanced sweetness, allows nuanced flavours to shine. Adorned with slivers of almonds and pistachios, this visual and gastronomic masterpiece is a must-try when exploring the Haroon Mosque—a sweet indulgence that captures the essence of Indian tradition.
If You Go
Haroon Mosque is located on Soi Chareon Krung 36, just a 15-minute walk from Tak Sin BTS station. Treat yofishurself to South Indian and Halal food available from 10 am to 10 pm. If you’re driving to Haroon Mosque on December 16, you can leave your car in the parking lot behind the Thailand Creative & Design Center (TCDC). The mosque is approximately a 10-minute walk from TCDC.
By Thai PBS World Feature Desk
